spring break!

Running Diary: Barcelona/Toulouse 2006

Tuesday afternoon: What a day! I knew I shouldn’t put everything off until the last minute, but I was just spent last night. I probably shouldn’t have gone to Prague last weekend, since that’s what made me so tired yesterday. I got back from school last night (where I hadn’t gotten anything done, thanks to Carice’s call) and I just wanted to crash. I decided to put everything off until the morning and just go to bed. So, at 5:30 this morning I was up and at it – taking a quick shower, packing, and typing up the questions for the big speaking test. I managed to get it all done by 7:30, and Tracy and I started in on the test. The kids did pretty well, with nobody failing this time (not even Feri!). Everything would have been fine, except they had to make us wait for some of the tests because they had to make sure our classes were covered. It gave us some appreciated downtime in the middle of the tests, but it meant we didn’t finish until 12:20. My flight left at 1:30. I had called ahead for a taxi to arrive at 12:15, so I dashed downstairs and hopped in. It was a nerve-racking ride because I knew it would be tight. I dashed up to the check in (no line), heard them call my flight as I went through security, heard it called a second time as I went through customs, and made it to the gate at last call. I was very happy to be on that plane. Now I’m here. I’ve found my way to the hostel and I’m about to go out and get train tickets for the trip to France (I hope).

Wednesday morning: I’m in a room full of sleeping people – how funny. I forgot that nobody gets up early at hostels.

Wednesday evening: Yesterday I went to get my tickets and had some problems. First the guy didn’t seem to understand where I wanted to go. When I showed him my paper with the info on it he caught on. He got me my tickets there all right, but he didn’t think there was a train from Toulouse to Norbonne Tuesday morning. I asked him if he could check, so he did and booked it. Then he tried to get the Norbonne to Barcelona ticket and told me they only had first class. I told him to go for it – anything to get on that train – and he tells me the train isn’t running because of a strike. Now I own a completely useless Toulouse to Norbonne ticket (which I’ve paid for) since I can’t get from Norbonne to Barcelona in time to get my flight. I look at him pleadingly and say, Monday? He checks and gets me on Monday trains and refunds my other ticket. What a pain, but now I have to spend another night in Barcelona (an expensive proposition).

After that I walked back up La Rambla to the hostel, stopping for a cup of coffee at an outdoor café. I forgot how many street performers there are in this city! I saw magicians, mimes, musicians of all types, artists, people dressed up as statues, and even a juggler. I changed at the hostel, and went out for the legendary Barcelona tapas. I found a place that looked cool and ended up sitting outside munching on monchego cheese and tomato/garlic bread and sipping beer while a pan flute and guitar duo played Hey Jude. I felt very cultured. For dinner I wandered into a random restaurant down towards the water and had paella and sangria. I’m still not sure I ate the king prawn the right way (it was huge!), but the mussels were especially tasty. After a bit of walking I headed back to bed early.

Today I saw the Gaudi highlights: La Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell. I paid to go in the church, of course, and was so glad I did. Much of it was just as I remembered, and much of it had changed. The nave’s vaulted ceiling is almost done and they’re starting work on the glory façade which is at the bottom of the nave. The passion façade is starting to look dirty, and the nativity one is really getting dark, but I read that they plan to do a big cleaning as the building completes so it will all look the same when it’s dedicated and opened. I was able to see even more meaningful detail and symbolism in the building now. What were random grape-looking things last time are now part of a Eucharistic theme in the nave. The funky columns supporting the nave are now tree-like giving the nave a forest feel. They say it’ll be done in 2020. I’ll be amazed if they make that.

Then I wandered over to the park. I remember it being at the top of a big hill, but last time we definitely drove there. What a hike! It was pretty crowded, being such a nice day, but I still stopped to read a while in the shade. I wanted to find the exact spot where we took the great pictures last time, and I think I did, but my zoom is just too weak to take the same photos. That and the light wasn’t as good at midday. We’ll see when I upload them. After that I grabbed some forgettable pasta for lunch and hopped on the metro down to the beach. I spent the late afternoon basking in the sun, reading, and sticking my toes in some really cold water. Looking out at the Mediterranean I couldn’t help thinking of the line from Shawshank, “I hope the Pacific’s as blue as it is in my dreams.” It was gorgeous.

Thursday Morning: Here I am, on the train again. Some differences between Spanish/French trains and Hungarian trains: 1) All seats are reserved on all trains. This has its advantages (no fighting for good spots, more orderly process of getting on, no worrying about getting a seat when you get to the station) and its disadvantages (no choice in seat location, bummer if you’re next to the snorer, have to get tickets in advance to guarantee your seat); 2) The aforementioned seats have great lumbar support; 3) Clean, clean, clean, clean; 4) More luggage room; 5) No fun 6-8 person compartments.

Last night I was going to write some, but I was too tired. This is becoming less of a running diary and more of a plain old diary. How boring. I guess it’s unrealistic to do a running diary for a whole trip. I got in at about 1:30 after participating in an organized hostel event. I was skeptical, but I met some cool Chicago guys in my room and they convinced me. We left at 8 and went to a tapas place first. They were ok (the chorizo was the best, I thought), but the sangria was the best I’ve had! The two Chicago guys, a DC guy, a Kiwi, and I made friends with three IU girls from Indy and Detroit. They were friendly, but about as intelligent as rocks. I was surprised to hear they were actually grad students until they mentioned they were all in an MBA program together. My response: that figures. Obviously not all business types are dumb and shallow, but why are so many of the ones I meet like that?

After the Tapas we went to a Flamenco show, which was pretty cool. I was disappointed that there was only one woman who danced (I figured there would at least be two dancers!), but she was outstanding and the music was really cool. I’ve never seen feet move that fast in person (and if not for that stupid White Christmas movie it would have been an absolute first)! She was incredible, and so passionate. The singing was all about emotion, not quality of sound. Or maybe I should say it’s about creating a certain sort of pleading, overwrought sound. My favorite part, though, was the guitar player. All the stereotypes of Flamenco guitar playing were there. I couldn’t help thinking of the “Spanish guitar” songs Nathan and I used to sing to Miriam last year (“Miriam! Oh, Miriam! We did not wash our dishes!”).

From there it was on to a bar where we got a free shot: some sort of apple concoction. The highlight there was going three for three on ordering girly drinks. Yet another reason to be thankful for my sisters (A tip for those of you watching at home: coconut drinks almost always go over well. Just remember the adage, Malibu will never fail you.) After that we walked a bit to a dance club. The club was forgettable (I only stayed long enough to get a free shot there – another apple concoction – and to be polite), but on the way we passed a sweet brass band playing in the middle of La Rambla. The group had strange instrumentation (trumpets, trombone, euphonium, a mellaphone-type thing, a flugel, and one sweet tuba), strange zoot suit-ish costumes, and played/improvised a sizzling rendition of besame mucho in a Ska/Dixieland style. I loved it, especially because the tuba was seriously digging into his baseline.

So I didn’t stay at the club long, but headed for home, passing some chanting and dancing Espanyol fans. It’s amazing how alive the city was at 1:30 in the morning – I even passed a few families walking with kids in strollers! How strange! It was an early morning today to catch the 8:45 train, but I had time to stop for an unremarkable croissant and a terrific cup of coffee. Now I’m flying north toward the Pyrenees on the train. It looks like another beautiful day!

Later Thursday Morning: I take back anything bad I said about the Pyrenees. They’re real mountains and I would not like to bike up them. Also, Miles Davis’ Sketches of Spain was a great album to accompany this trip.

Thursday Almost-Noon: We’ve been passing by some amazing ocean views, and now that we’re in France. The blueness of the water still gets me. Somehow I expected everything to immediately turn ultra-snobby when we crossed the border. No noticeable change yet! Also, the customs guy made fun of my passport picture saying he wasn’t going to let me in because I have so much more hair (facial and otherwise) than I did then. Sweet!

Thursday Afternoon: Now I’m on the train from Norbonne to Toulouse (via Carcasonne), and I’ve traded ocean vistas for red earth vineyards. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen so many packed together. It’s like Red Mountain in Kennewick, only over the space of miles and miles. With the mountains in the distance and fields upon fields of rolling countryside being broken only by the occasional row of ash trees or terracotta roofed village, it’s downright provincial. I wonder if the origins of that word are with the Provence region of France. It would make sense, it seems.

On a side note, I originally thought I would be seated next to a smelly Frenchman for this leg of the journey, but it turns out he wasn’t sitting in the right seat, and now a lovely young Spanish woman is next to me. I might try to strike up a conversation when (if) she stops reading Rubias de Nueva York (“Blondes of New York”). High literature, I’m sure.

A Tiny Bit Later Thursday Afternoon: So we’re at the station in Carcasonne, and I’m quite pleased with the look of the town. It looks like a sleepy little university town (and the guy who just got on the train looks positively crazy professor-ish. I’m especially glad because one of the all-time favorite key chains in my extensive collection comes from this very town. It’s a little medieval cross Dad got me when he was here.

Also, I talked to the Spanish girl a bit, about as much as my Spanish allowed. She’s a university student from Barcelona in economics, and very interesting. Our language barrier has been reached, sadly, and the profound existential questions I would ask (which Barcelona soccer club do you support?) are beyond me.

Late Thursday Afternoon: I’m in Toulouse now. Sam told me that I should visit Jacobins in my free time this afternoon, and that I might want to figure out who is buried there. He was so right! I got to see the final resting place of Saint Thomas Aquinas! As I stood in front of his tomb, all I could recall from the chunks of the Suma I read for Dr. Smit were his proofs for the existence of God (cosmological, etc.). Too bad I never found any of them convincing. To be honest I appreciate Aquinas more for his methodology and approach than for what he actually said.

Thursday Night: After spending the afternoon wandering around the city I conclude that there are tons of young people here, and everything’s made of brick. I like it! The two churches I visited were cool (Jacobins and St. Sermin), especially on Maundy Thursday. There were a lot of people praying in the cathedral.

I met Sam in the square, and then had pizza and went to a concert with three of his buddies (Ross, Alex, and Juni). Ross, another engineer in his grad program, is a PSU alum, so we exchanged State College stories. That was a lot of fun, but I think we bored the rest of the group (Sam and the two Romanian girls). The concert was really interesting and unique. Dionysus, the first band we saw was extremely eclectic. They did it all, from fairly heavy rock-core to ukulele, banjo, and bell trios. I loved that they were always fresh and surprising. Everything seemed exciting, and it made for a terrific live show. I could tell the lead singer is an obviously tremendous performer, even though I didn’t understand a word he said. The second group, Moos and Haki, were pretty shallow. It seemed like formulaic happy/pop, only a notch above the Britney Spears or Jessica Simpsons of the world. When they came out later with a different background band (traded in a synthesizer for an accordion and an acoustic guitar) they sounded a lot better and far more organic. I enjoyed them then, bit we were too tired to stay very long.

Another observation: French people smoke a lot. I think more than Hungarians.

Friday Morning: I slept in, I took a long shower, I had a great shave, and I put on the last of my clean clothes for the trip (unless I do laundry). It’s gonna be a great day!

Friday Afternoon: I did a little site-seeing on my own this morning (saw the mayor’s palace, the arc du triumphe, and got camera batteries) and ended by stumbling into a Good Friday mass at a cathedral. I didn’t understand a word of it, but knew the melody to one of the hymns! I had almost forgotten it was Good Friday, and this small and serious gathering of people reminded me. It was pretty cool to follow what was going on (scripture reading, prayer, confession, etc.) even though I couldn’t follow what was going on.

I met Sam after he finished work (at noon) and we had lunch at a South Western French restaurant. I had fish (yummm!) followed by chocolate mousse and he had Duck heart and a meringue floating in milk custard for desert. It was tasty. We talked a lot about French food, and I can understand why this country turns people into gourmands. After that we went to the train station to figure out where we’re going tomorrow, and then rented bikes for the afternoon. Very shortly we’re going to go off for a ride!

Friday Night: It’s been a long day and I’m tired. We rode all over town, which is a terrific way to see things, and then went off along the river. Our goal was to wind our way downstream and then cut back, away from the river, to meet up with some of Sam’s friends to play Frisbee. The problem is that cutting away from the river always involves going uphill, and in this case going up a big bluff. It was rough going, but the downhill afterward was very fun. We eventually met the other four guys and played a bit of three on three ultimate (Les Americans vs. Les Frances) until Sam and I had to leave for church. We whipped back into the city, changed our clothes, and dashed off to church, making it just before the service started. It was in French.

They did the last seven words of Christ, and I could follow a lot of it (thanks to Sam’s help in pointing out Bible verses and such. I could even understand almost all of the songs (because I knew them in English or because they were so many cognates)! It was kind of fun to see how much I could pick up (until the sermon, that is!). I talked with some of the young people after, including Susanna from Costa Rica, who was very patient with my Spanish. I also met a PhD student of bird behavior. We had a great chat about his work, but it was a bit R-rated (for bird reproduction), so I’ll save that.

Sam and I rode back into town, and grabbed some crepes for dinner. They were delicious! They were also perfectly accompanied by Normandy hard cider. Sadly the combination of a long bike ride, an intense Frisbee match, some good crepes, and lots of great cider has made me too sleepy to continue.

Saturday Morning: My butt still hurts from that bike ride.

Saturday Noon: We spent the morning trying to find some internet access, first unsuccessfully at Sam’s school, and eventually at an internet café. The highlights of the morning included returning the bikes (thank goodness!) and breakfast at a real French bakery. I’ve always been a bread lover, but this is bread heaven. I could eat French baguettes for the rest of my life and never complain!

Saturday a tiny bit after noon: We’re on the train to Courdes sur Ciel, a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, but this is a very popular train. Every square inch of floor space is full of people, and Sam and I are sitting in the aisle facing each other eating our sandwiches for lunch. Xian’s had to stand the whole trip! It’s uncomfortable, but it’ll be a good story some day.

Saturday later afternoon: Courdes is lovely, and the rain held off almost all day! It’s 5 and it just started. The afternoon started well when a French kid from our train offered to have his Dad give us a ride to Courdes on their way home. It was nice, especially since it was a 5 km uphill walk! The town is perched on top of a small but steep hill in the middle of a valley which gives it an impressive view of the surrounding countryside and an imposing look as you approach it. We walked up through the town, parts of which date back to the 12^th century, and then explored a bit at the top. Its natural defenses were supplemented by a system of 5 walls and lots of interesting gates, so we had a lot of fun imagining what it would be like to attack the town. It’s got a lot of character and great views of idyllic French countryside. We had a cup of coffee at the top, worked our way back down, and then ducked into another coffee shop as the rain hit. We’re taking cover here for about an hour until our train back to Toulouse. Sam, Xian, and I have had some great conversations today about linguistics and language, faith, morality, and lots of other profound topics. It’s been very enjoyable.

Saturday Night: Joel from church met us at the train station and we set off to find a pub where we could watch the Toulouse-Paris rugby match. We ended up in a real popular team bar filled with fans that showed the match on a big screen. The atmosphere was great, even if we had to stand the whole time! Toulouse played aggressively, and what they lacked in size and strength they made up for with speed and passion. Someone really lit a fire under them! They could never put it across for a try, but they scored 5 field goals and won 15-0 showing great spirit on defense. It wasn’t the prettiest match (the rain didn’t help), but I had a blast. Ross (the PSU guy) joined us for the match and we all went out for kebabs afterward. It felt like a true guys’ night out!

Sunday Morning: Happy Easter! I slept with the window wide open last night and consequently woke up this morning unable to breathe. It’s the consequence of all the green around, I guess!

Sunday barely after noon: I went to Sam’s church again this morning, but this time Ross, Alex, and Juni came with us. The two girls, being Romanians who’ve never gone to church regularly, really didn’t know what to expect. We had to allay some of their fears as we walked to church (as we also munched on more French pastries – heaven on Earth!).

The service was a nice and festive (a little ensemble with a violin and flute complimented the piano nicely) with a heavy emphasis on music. We even sang some traditional Easter hymns I recognized like Christ the Lord is Risen Today and Thine be the Glory, but of course in French. Some times I sang quietly in English, though. I met even more people at church this time, especially young students. There are so many in Toulouse! I chatted with some French girls who had spent exchange years in the US (Traverse City, MI and Oklahoma), some Swiss guys who were in town for vacation, a few Americans, an Australian, a UT girl from Texas, and a Jamaican girl! It was also nice to see Joel and Susanna again! I wish I could have understood more (any!) of what was being said, but that’s ok. It was more about the cultural experience than anything.

On our way back from church we split up with the girls going to the bakery for bread and cake and the boys going to the market for fruits, vegetables, meat, and cheese. After we picked up a bottle of wine we had all the makings of a fine picnic. We’re off momentarily to find a nice spot along the river.

Sunday nap-time: This easily ranked with the best picnics I’ve ever been on: French baguettes (nice and soft on the inside!) with Toulouse sausage, powerful gruyere cheese (or brie), and super fresh tomato slices followed by incredibly sweet strawberries and slices of dried pineapple, apple “cake” that was really more like pie, all washed down with a Bordeaux sauvignon blanc. What a feast! Sam and I threw his Frisbee for a bit, but now he and Ross are throwing and I just feel like sleeping. It’s been fun to find out a bit about Romania from Juni and Alex, and hear about their transition to life in Western Europe. They have the Eastern Europe sense of humor, though, with its self-deprecating irony. I think I’ll just lay back in the sun and doze.

Sunday early evening: We met one of Sam’s friends at another park near the one were we ate because we thought he was playing “plunko.” It turns out he wasn’t actually playing, but just watching the Toulouse championships going on. “Plunko” is very similar to bocce, but it’s played on a rough gravel terrain so the technique is to lob the balls in toward the target, as opposed to rolling. The guys we watched for a while were incredible! They were especially good at tossing it forcefully in with back spin so it would knock their opponent’s ball out but leave theirs sitting in its place. I really wanted to try, though! Bummer…

Sunday night: Ugh. I went out to dinner with Sam and Xian for the big French meal. We’ve been planning this all weekend. Sam told me I had to try the specialty of the region: Cassoule. It’s a casserole of white beans, chunks of duck, and sausage that they bake for about a day. Complimented by a nice hearty red wine, it was a terrific meal, but I feel like I’ve got a rock in my stomach! I don’t want to do anything but sit, which is good since we’re gonna go watch a movie with Juni, Alex, and Ross.

Monday morning before dawn: Sam just walked me to my train and we said goodbye. It seems like I never say exactly what I want to at goodbyes. I don’t feel like I thanked Sam as much feeling as his hospitality warranted. He took care of me all weekend, making sure I had everything I needed or wanted. I wanted to bring him something Hungarian, but never quite got around to getting it before I left. Oh well, this is what friends do, but I don’t want to be someone who takes mine for granted.

Monday morning, still early: zzzzzzzz…

Monday morning, not so early: I always want to wait to take pictures. I think, I don’t want to be bothered now – I just want to enjoy this. I assume I’ll get another chance. For example, the Pyrenees were gorgeous on the train ride up to France, but I thought I could wait until today to take some pictures. It shouldn’t be a problem: same train, same route, and the mountains sure aren’t moving. Today they’re completely clouded in. I can’t even see them.

Monday noon: I’ve arrived back in Barcelona, and the question is what I will do tonight. I was supposed to come back tomorrow since my flight is tomorrow afternoon, but the train was completely full. That means one less day with Sam (bummer!), but an extra day in Barcelona as compensation isn’t bad. But, I don’t have a room reserved for tonight. I’m thinking about trying to pull an all-nighter, but it’s daunting. It would be a great story, and could be kind of fun. Sarah Jane will probably let me leave my stuff with her so I don’t have to worry about carting around my bags. But, I just can’t do it. Even as I write this I’m deciding to go to a hostel. If my flight was in the morning, if I had gotten a good night’s sleep last night or slept on the train, and if I had someone to do it with, I think I would try it. I just keep picturing myself at 4:00 am at some dance club with a bunch of weird people checking the time every 10 minutes to see if I can go find an open coffee shop yet. I’ll bet partying all night is not nearly as cool as it’s supposed to be.

Monday early afternoon: I got a room and I feel better already. Now I’m waiting for Sarah Jane and her friend. I hope they show, but I won’t be surprised if they don’t considering the last minute nature of our planning. And, they’re here.

Monday late afternoon: Last time I was here Dad and I drove up Montjuic, as I recall. This time Sarah Jane, Leah, and I walked. It was worth it, but I’m a bit tired. It’s the best view of the city, and I forgot how cool this fortress is. All I remembered was the insane gun museum, which was still there, as evidenced by the giant anti-aircraft guns and artillery that are still here.

Monday evening: We strolled down the hill through the gardens, and my job seemed to be chief photographer for SJ and Leah. I don’t mind it – it’s just funny to me how many pictures they want. We took a metro over to the beach and sat in the sand until it started to rain a bit. The most interesting thing was this pair of brothers throwing rocks at each other. Or rather, the older one was throwing them at the younger and the younger did his best to return fire. The moment of truth came when the older one hit his sister in the head – then mom had to get involved.

Monday night: More paella and sangria! I tried to find the exact restaurant that Dad and I went to 5 years ago, but couldn’t. At least we were in the same neighborhood (Barceloneta)! I don’t think it was as good as last time, but it’s hard to know after so long. We spent most of the evening discussing movies, actually, and I was made to expound on my theory of acceptable chick flicks. It seemed to meet with some approval. I’m back in the hostel for a reasonably early night (at least early by Barcelona standards).

Tuesday morning: I’m sitting at the north end of Las Ramblas at an outdoor table at the Café Zurich, enjoying a coffee and the bright sunshine. It’s another glorious day (the weather’s been so good)! I’m not sure what I’m going to do with my last few hours in Barcelona, but I think I want a new shirt. Perhaps I’ll buy a shirt.

Tuesday afternoon: I’m on the plane, soaring back over Barcelona after taking off above the blue Mediterranean. I can see La Sagrada Familia and Montjuic and all the other wonderful sites. It’s been a lovely trip, but I think I’m ready to get back to my routine. It was especially good to see Sam. And, I got the new shirt; it’s blue.